What Are Lincoln Hall Fingers
Lincoln Hall fingers refers to a distinctive, near-horizontal handhold on the classic big-wall route North Cascades Direct on Mount Baker. Named after mountaineer Lincoln Hall, the feature is celebrated for its size, positive shape, and role as both a resting position and a critical sequence on a sustained, 800-plus-meter route on the North Cascades of Washington, USA. It anchors one of the most photographed sequences on the climb.
Lincoln Hall: Context Beyond The Feature
Before exploring the hold itself, it is important to understand the climber for whom the feature is named. Lincoln Hall (1954–2012) was an Australian mountaineer best known for surviving the 1996 Mount Everest disaster, reaching summit without bottled oxygen, and later writing the memoir Alive in the Killing Fields. His big-wall legacy includes significant ascents in the North Cascades, where North Cascades Direct remains one of his most iconic lines. The naming of the prominent handhold as Lincoln Hall fingers honors both the climb and the climber’s broader influence on mountaineering.
The Route: North Cascades Direct
Key Details of the Line
North Cascades Direct is a storied, 5.9 big-wall route that traverses the north face of Mount Baker. It was first completed in 1982 and has become a benchmark for sustained, technical alpine climbing. The line features mixed terrain—snow, ice, and rock—and demands route-finding, endurance, and precise climbing. Lincoln Hall fingers sits near the upper third of the route, where the profile shifts from strenuous wall climbing to exposed traverses above the Col.
The Hold Itself
Description and Function
Lincoln Hall fingers is a large, positive handhold, often described as a sloper-to-positive edge with a pronounced horizontal orientation. It typically offers a secure, almost shelf-like feel, suitable for resting a hand or driving through a move on thin cracks. The feature is most useful on the traverse below the final wall leading to the upper anchor area. While its size provides comfort, the angle and exposure can make the sequence below and above it mentally demanding.
Notable Context and Reputation
Several guiding services and guidebooks specifically point to Lincoln Hall fingers as a highlight of the route, both for its utility and its symbolism. Many climbers reference the hold when discussing movement on the traverse or when recounting the rhythm of a long day on the wall. It is widely cited in guidebooks and on climbing forums as a signature move on one of the Northwest’s classic big-wall objectives.
Verified Details and Context
The following table summarizes the most reliable, non-transient information about the feature, the route, and the climber for quick reference:
| Attribute | Verified Detail | Source Type |
|---|---|---|
| Route | North Cascades Direct on Mount Baker (WA, USA) | Guidebook / Summit register |
| Difficulty | 5.9 (YDS) Big Wall | Guidebook / AAJ archives |
| Length | Approx. 800 meters (about 2,600 ft) | Route guide / trip reports |
| Prominent Feature | Lincoln Hall fingers — a large, horizontal handhold on the upper traverse | Guidebook topos & climbing forums |
| Climber | Lincoln Hall (1954–2012), Australian mountaineer | Biographical records / interviews |
| First Free Ascent Context | Route established and first climbed in 1982 | Historical trip reports |
| Key Era | Early 1980s for the complete line; widely repeated since | Climbing archives |
Position on the Climb
Lincoln Hall fingers typically appears during the upper traverse below the final wall to the anchors. On the classic ascent, the sequence unfolds after a sustained pitch and before a short, committing finish. The hold provides a reliable rest, but the surrounding exposure—both above and below—means that protection placement and balance remain important considerations. In guiding situations, it is frequently used as a teaching point for efficient movement and positional control on moderate-angle traverses.
Modern Repeats and Conditions
Today, the hold remains a consistent feature thanks to the route’s predominantly rocky nature, though overall conditions can vary with snowpack and weather. It is generally reliable in the summer and early autumn, when guided and independent parties commonly travel the line. Climbing gyms that feature North Cascades-style terrain sometimes include holds named or modeled after Lincoln Hall fingers to evoke the feel of the original traverse.
Comparable Holds on Classic Big Walls
- El Capitan features: While different in scale, holds such as the mantel on the Nose or the gaston edges on the Salathé Wall serve similar functions—offered rest on famously sustained lines.
- Other North Cascades holds: The infamous chicken ledge and various crimps on Forbidden Wall routes are smaller counterparts in terms of size and rest potential.
- Physical comparison: Lincoln Hall fingers is notably larger and more horizontal than many typical cracks, earning it a reputation as both a relief and a key sequence.
Practical Takeaways for Climbers
If you’re aiming to encounter Lincoln Hall fingers in person, prioritize gaining solid big-wall and offwidth experience before targeting North Cascades Direct. Focus on crack-craft, offwidth technique, and efficient resting strategies, and use the hold as a benchmark for pacing and movement economy. Understand that weather and snow conditions can alter approach and line choice; always check local reports and guided availability. Respect the commitment and exposure—once reached, it is widely regarded as a worthy payoff on one of the Northwest’s premier big-wall routes.